By Douglas J. Burgasser

By Douglas J. Burgasser

Siding is the exterior cladding of a house that acts as the cosmetic finish and the first barrier against wind and water. Almost any material can be used as siding. Let’s talk about some of the common exterior siding materials that we see on homes in the Rochester area.

WOOD

Traditionally, for many generations, one of the preferred exterior siding materials has been wood. Whether it is wood shingles or wood siding, wood has proven to be a reliable and durable exterior siding material.

Primarily, wood siding and wood shingles are made either of pine or cedar. If it is kept properly painted or stained, a wood exterior can last for many generations. Some grades of cedar can even be left exposed to the weather and perform well. Of course, wood materials require exterior maintenance and most wood will weather and decay if not properly maintained. Homeowners must regularly caulk, scrape, and paint or stain the wood. In addition, wood exteriors are a natural material and are more prone to infestation from nature’s pests; including carpenter ants, carpenter bees, woodpeckers, and wasps.

BRICK

It’s pretty hard to beat the durability of a brick home. Brick is timeless and attractive. There are relatively few homes in the Rochester area whose exterior is entirely brick. On the other hand, there are many homes with brick facades on the front of the house.

Brick exteriors require very little, or infrequent, maintenance. Sometimes, re-pointing (re-mortaring of loose mortar joints) becomes necessary. If a soft brick was used, a few bricks could need to be replaced due to spalling or other wear. Overall, the advantages of a brick exterior are durability and low maintenance. Another advantage to brick is that it does have superior sound and wind insulation characteristics.

There are a few disadvantages of a brick exterior. First, brick is a relatively expensive material as compared to other more plentiful siding materials. The higher costs are due to both the cost of the material, as well as the labor costs associated with installation. Another drawback to brick would be that you cannot change its color or appearance once the initial choice is made, although painting brick is an option and there are many painted brick homes in Rochester. Unfortunately, once any material is painted, the paint must be maintained.

ALUMINUM
Aluminum siding was really the first widely used low-maintenance siding material. Aluminum siding was made available in many colors, textures and styles. It could be applied directly over wood siding, resulting in an almost maintenance-free home. Aluminum siding is weather resistant, low-maintenance and it has a lifespan of many decades.

Of course we all know that aluminum dents. Once aluminum siding and trim is dented it is not possible to remove the dents without replacing the damaged material or fixing the dents in a similar way that dents in a car are fixed. Making matters worse, it becomes difficult to find material that will match the existing texture and dimensions of the siding. Matching the color is almost impossible. This is partially because aluminum siding will fade, affecting its color. Eventually the siding weathers and oxidizes, noticeably affecting its appearance.

It is important to understand that aluminum siding can be painted. Of course, as is the case with any painting job, proper preparation is critical. The siding must be thoroughly cleaned and prepared. If painted properly, a paint job on aluminum siding can last many years.

VINYL
In many respects vinyl siding replaced aluminum siding as the material of choice for low maintenance exteriors. Like aluminum, vinyl siding is available in numerous designs and colors. It is essentially maintenance free and it will last for generations. The advantage that vinyl siding has over aluminum is that it is not as easily damaged. Vinyl siding has some “give”. In other words, it will not easily become dented or damaged if bumped or hit by an object.

Vinyl siding also fades or discolors slightly over a period of many years. Another disadvantage is that, much like brick, it is difficult to change the appearance or color of vinyl siding once the initial material choice is made. Vinyl siding can also be painted, but this is not done very often, and proper preparation is also very critical. Vinyl siding will become brittle as time progresses, due to the exposure to the sun’s rays. This makes is more susceptible to cracking from the impact of objects. Although vinyl siding is widely utilized, some traditionalists feel that vinyl is not as desirable as a more natural wood exterior. Further, the main component in vinyl siding is petroleum (oil), and this is not considered a renewable resource, like wood.

HARDBOARD
Hardboard siding is a material that became popular around the 1970’s. It is a lower cost alternative to wood. From a
distance it appears like traditional horizontal wood siding. However, it is usually made of Masonite^® and it has not proven to be nearly as durable as wood.

Hardboard siding is very susceptible to damage due to its exposure to the elements. If it is not kept meticulously painted and caulked at the edges it will suck up moisture and become swelled, softened and deteriorated. The advantage to hardboard siding is its relatively low initial cost. However, the disadvantages outweigh this cost. Hardboard exteriors require a greater amount of maintenance and they are not nearly as durable as the previously noted choices.

ASBESTOS CEMENT SHINGLES
Exterior wall shingles are not always made of wood. Asbestos-based composition shingles are quite common in the Rochester area. It is a material that has proven to be long lasting and reliable. It is a paintable material, with the ability to hold a coat of paint noticeably longer than traditional wood siding or wood shingles. In other words, homeowners do not have to repaint the exterior of their home as often.

Asbestos shingles are somewhat brittle. As a result, it is quite common to find chipped or cracked shingles on the exterior of the house. They can be easily replaced, especially if the homeowner is fortunate enough to have a few spare shingles stored in the corner of their garage. We commonly tell people that if they have a house with asbestos shingles and another house in the neighborhood is in the process of removing their asbestos shingles, they should ask their neighbor if they can have a bundle of the old shingles so that they can use them in the future to replace any damaged shingles.

The advantages of asbestos cement shingles are the long life expectancy and the weather resistance. Painting maintenance is not nearly as important as it is with wood siding or hardboard siding.

The disadvantages to this material are its brittleness. Also, the word “asbestos” strikes fear in the hearts of some. However, since this is a material that is on the exterior of the house, and since it is not a material that readily degrades, there has not been much concern regarding possible health effects of this material. It will need to be properly removed and disposed of if the owner chooses to re-side their house with an alternate material, and special precautions should technically be followed if cutting or breaking up the shingles.

FIBER CEMENT BOARD SIDING

Fiber cement siding has become quite popular in recent decades. It is a siding that is composed of a combination of cellulose fibers and cement like materials. Because of the materials used in its manufacturer, fiber cement siding is popular as an environmental or “green” alternative. After all, the wood fiber in this type of siding does not come from harvested old trees. Also, the cement and sand materials that are utilized are readily available. In addition, there is a substantial life expectancy for this material, possibly exceeding fifty years.

Quite often you will hear this type of siding referred to as “HardiPlank®”. This is a brand name that to some extent has become synonymous with this material. The advantages of fiber cement siding are numerous. It is durable and long lasting, it requires minimal maintenance, and it is attractive. The downside to this material is its relative cost as compared to wood or vinyl. Also, it is relatively heavy and needs to be supported properly. Still, it is an excellent choice, judging by what we know thus far.

T-111
Basically an exterior plywood, with grooves to make it aesthetically more pleasing, T-111 siding is a low-cost, easy-to-install material. Unfortunately, like hardboard siding, T-111 must be installed properly and religiously stained and maintained to provide any significant life. The seams of the plywood do not overlap to sheet water away and, if proper trim and flashing is not installed, a lot of water will get behind the siding and damage the structure.

T-111 might be a good choice for sheds and smaller unheated structures, since it is easy to replace and repair. For a whole house, it is considered a lesser-grade material.

STUCCO (CEMENT AND EIFS)

“Stucco” is a generic term used for a cement-like finish. Usually the finish will have a rough texture. Stucco comes in many forms. Old cement stucco was applied over block or over a wire mesh. This material has many of the qualities of brick, since it is a masonry finish. Keeping cracks and gaps patched and sealed is important, and once stucco is painted, it needs to keep being painted for cosmetic reasons and for greater water resistance. With unpainted stucco, choosing a contractor that can match the color and texture is important when making repairs.

Modern stucco is often referred to as “EIFS”. This stands for “exterior insulating and finishing system”. The most popular brand name for this material is “Dryvit®”. This material is used extensively for commercial buildings. If installed properly, this material is attractive and durable. However, there are many, many details of installation that must be closely followed. If not, water can get behind the siding system and become trapped. The trapped moisture can rot or rust interior wall components and lead to other water damage. Again, the choice of a qualified contractor is very important when installing or repairing this material.

ASPHALT SHINGLES
In years past, many city homes had a type of asphalt shingle siding installed. This basically consisted of a thick asphalt shingle (similar to a roofing shingle) installed over a fiberboard base shingle. Most of this siding that remains on rural and city homes is worn and old. The shingle deteriorates after many years, and the fiberboard beneath suffers water damage. Although repairs are often made, matching shingles cannot be found easily and repairs become cosmetically objectionable. Replacing this siding is the best long-term repair in most cases.

MUD (THE MUD HOUSE)
Almost every building material has been used as siding at one time or another. We even have an example of dirt used for the exterior walls of a home in the Town of Penfield. This is the known as the Mud House. Repairs to the exterior consist of getting additional mud from the property and applying over the exterior.

Hardboard shingles, fiberglass cement shingles, Teflon-coated hardboard siding, steel siding, etc.

We run into different siding materials from time to time. The above list just scratches the surface of the multitude of materials out there. If you run into a new or different material, we encourage you to call us with questions or to increase our knowledge base.

By Douglas J. Burgasser, P.E.

We have fielded a number of questions regarding duct design for forced air heating and cooling systems. For example, people ask us how duct systems differ between modern homes and old homes. We are also asked what it means when a house is advertised as being “air conditioning ready”.  This blog is intended to answer some of those questions.

First, it is important to understand that forced air heating systems were around long before air conditioning. Therefore, many older homes were constructed before there was a thought of air conditioning a home. The duct system was designed strictly to provide circulation of heated air.

In years past the prevailing thinking was that the supply runs in each of the rooms should be located towards the interior of the room, and the returns should be located at the outer perimeter of the rooms. The problem with this design is that the heated air was not provided to those areas of the room where it was needed the most, namely along the exterior walls. This resulted in less than uniform heating in the various rooms.

Thankfully, since warm air rises, the heated air tended to distribute itself throughout the majority of the house. Many old farmhouses did not have supply runs to the second floor and relied on warm air rising through transfer openings or through the stairwell. The very fact that warm air rises to the upper floors also explains why the lack of return runs on the second floor of an old house did not result in unacceptable heating of second floor rooms.

For the last 40 to 50 years residential forced air systems have been designed differently than their predecessors. Now, each room will have at least one supply run (larger rooms will have 2 or 3 supply runs), and these are located along the outer perimeter of the rooms. They are usually positioned beneath windows or near exterior doors. This is because the exterior walls, the windows and the doors represent those areas where heating (and cooling) is needed the most.

Also, in modern systems return runs are located at the interior of the major rooms. Return runs are not necessary for each and every room, but there should be a generous distribution of return runs throughout the house. Returns are usually located at a higher elevation on an interior wall.

Some builders choose to install a small number of centrally located return runs when constructing a house. These would be located in halls or central areas, rather than in the individual rooms. There are both advantages and disadvantages to this ducted return air design. This type of installation usually saves a small amount in terms of construction cost and prevents the wall cavities of the house from being negatively pressurized. Standard return air systems use return plenums in the basement and wall cavities throughout the house (not actual ductwork) to draw air back to the heating and cooling equipment. However, this can draw in unconditioned air from exterior walls and dust and dirt along baseboard floor trim. Unconditioned humid air in the wall cavities of an air conditioned home can result in mold and mildew growth in the wall cavities. On the negative side, the central ducted return air design does not allow for uniform distribution of air flow from all of the bedrooms, offices, etc.; especially during the air conditioning season.

It is more difficult to cool a house than it is to heat a house. This is because cold air is heavier, and it does not naturally rise up through a house. Instead, cool or cold air needs to be forced into the various rooms and air needs to be circulated through the rooms. Further, the primary sources of heat during the summer are the windows and warm ceilings near the attic on the upper floors of a house. This is why it is more difficult to cool a second floor, and it is also the reason why the location and distribution of return runs becomes more important. Placing the returns at a high elevation in the various rooms (especially on the upper-most floors) allows for warmer air to be drawn off the upper portion of the room during the cooling cycle. This allows for much more uniform air flow, and more uniform cooling.

Some builders will even go so far as to install returns at the floor level and near the ceiling level in the major rooms. This is very beneficial. The lower returns can be opened in the winter. The high returns are used in the summer (usually by closing a damper in the low returns) so that the warm air is drawn off the top of the room. This is a desirable design.

Oftentimes you will hear that a house that does not have an air conditioning system is “air conditioning ready”. All that this typically means is that the duct system is a modern duct system, with a generous number of supplies and returns throughout the house. Essentially, any modern home with a forced air system should be “air conditioning ready”. Sometimes a plenum or coil will already be installed in the ductwork above the furnace as well, such that the system is ready for an outdoor condenser/compressor unit (air conditioner) to be piped to the coil.

If you are looking for ways to decrease temperature differences throughout the house during the summer, it is a good idea to operate the fan or blower on your cooling system continuously during the air conditioning season, rather than only when the air conditioner is actually operating. This allows for greater air circulation rates and more uniform temperatures throughout the house.

Since cold air is more difficult to distribute throughout the house than warm air, it is beneficial to adjust the dampers on the duct system accordingly, depending on the season. Dampers that feed the second floor rooms should be fully open during the cooling season. Dampers that are located in the branches for the first floor rooms can be partially closed. This combination allows for more air flow to the second floor. Since warm air naturally rises to the second floor it can be beneficial to partially close the dampers for the second floor heat runs and fully open the dampers for the first floor heat runs during the heating season. Similarly, if looking for ways to cool the second floor better, you can block off or close a few returns on the first floor during the summer to force more of the warm air near the ceilings of the second floor back to the air conditioning equipment.

In most cases the dampers for the supply duct branches can be easily accessed from the basement space. The following photographs show examples of the dampers in the opened and closed positions. Care should be taken not to close too many of the dampers and you should start with all dampers fully open. If closing too many dampers, the air flow through the system can be reduced and this can cause problems in terms of frozen air conditioning coils or overheating heat exchangers. A heating contractor can check for adequate air flow as part of annual servicing and can help you balance the system optimally.

Continuous radio, television and newspaper advertisements tout the advantages of replacing your old, drafty windows with new energy-efficient windows.  You can call a company to come to your house tomorrow to tell you the advantages of window replacement and provide you with a quotation.  What should you do?

Like any equipment replacement decision, the answer regarding window replacement is not black and white.  There are many factors that go into this decision:

• Do I want to replace my windows strictly for energy efficiency?

• How efficient are my windows now?

• Can I improve the efficiency of my existing windows in a cost effective manner?

• Do I want to replace windows for comfort more than energy efficiency?

• Are my windows difficult to maintain?

• Do my windows need a lot of deferred maintenance?

• Am I concerned about lead paint hazards of old windows?

• Do I need new storm windows if I do not replace my windows?

• Are my windows aesthetically pleasing?

• Do my existing windows add to or detract from the value of my home?

• Do I live in a preservation district that restricts types of replacement windows?

Older windows require varying amounts of maintenance and repair, but many can be difficult to replace in terms of their aesthetic appeal

All of the above (and more) can factor into the decision making process.  However, there is some hard data that gets lost in the sales pitch that you need to consider.

Existing windows can vary widely in their insulating qualities and energy efficiency.  Window qualities to consider from an energy efficiency standpoint include:

• The insulating efficiency, or U-factor

• The “tightness” of the window to stop drafts (infiltration).

• The shading qualities to reduce heat gain.

Since the number of run-hours for air conditioning systems in our region varies widely, and the typical annual cost of air conditioning a home is far less than the heating cost, the first two qualities (U-factor and “tightness”) are the most critical properties.  The comparison of existing windows to replacement windows, in terms of energy savings, should focus on the window qualities that affect the cost of heating your home.

For years, many publications, including those from ASHRAE (the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air Conditioning Engineers) stated that a well-sealed single pane window with a good storm window is just as energy efficient as a standard grade double-pane window.  The problem is, most old windows are not well-sealed or well-maintained, and this is also true of the storm window.

Older, existing windows have many parts, but they can be maintained for many years

The Efficient Windows Collaborative (www.efficientwindows.org) is an organization of window manufacturers.  This organization promotes new windows and the related benefits, along with maintaining industry standards.  On their web site, they have a case study for an existing home in Buffalo, NY.  Part of the case study is shown below.

The case study basically points out that by going from a “Case 1” lower performing double pane window (which a single pane window with a storm could be considered basically equivalent) to a high-performance “Case 6” window, the house will reduce heating costs by approximately $300 per year.  This is for a house that probably has 20 or more windows.  The cost to replace that many windows would probably be in the range of at least $8,000 to $15,000 (assuming $400 to $600 per window for 20 to 25 windows).  This translates to a simple economic payback of 26 to 50 years!

Proper windows replacement in many homes requires the labor of a skilled contractor

To be fair, there is almost always a cost to bringing the existing windows up to a level of efficiency equivalent to a “Case 1” window.  But the cost of that improvement results in immediate corresponding energy savings as well; especially in terms of reducing leakage (infiltration).  Caulking, weather stripping, and repair/replacement of storm windows are the costs that should first be evaluated and compared to the costs of window replacement.

Examples of “modern” windows that are good candidates for repair or replacement

Beyond the issue of energy savings, in some cases window replacement can significantly add to the resale value of a home.   According to Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value Report, you can recoup more than 75% of the window replacement project cost in added home value.  The link to specific Rochester, NY data is: www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/middle-atlantic/city/rochester–ny.aspx

Of course, this is an organization that promotes remodeling and they are publishing financial estimates regarding the great value of such remodeling.  The value added is difficult to quantify and will vary widely based on the location of the house, market conditions, the condition of the existing windows, and other factors.

New windows can add significant value to a home, but at a significant cost

As with any home improvement, there are many factors to consider when thinking about replacing or restoring windows.  From a strict energy savings standpoint, most window replacements are not justified.  However, when energy savings is combined with added value to the home, elimination of lead paint, increased comfort, and other factors, replacement can often be justified.

As always, please do not hesitate to contact our office if we can be of any assistance in this regard, or in regard to other issues related to home inspections.