Archive for the ‘Home Repair’ Category

Piping

Thursday, April 26th, 2012
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By Douglas Burgasser
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We seem to get many questions regarding the various types of piping used in plumbing systems. For example, the recent use of “plastic” supply piping in modern homes and renovation work has prompted questions as to whether this type of piping is acceptable or desirable. In order to answer some of the questions we thought we would provide a brief explanation of the various types of residential supply and waste piping. We hope that you find this information to be beneficial.I

SUPPLY PIPING

Prior to the 1940s the majority of residential supply piping was galvanized steel. This is a very durable pipe that can last for generations. In the late 1930s, and especially post-World War II, copper supply piping became the industry standard. In the 1970s there was increased use of various types of plastic piping. However, copper piping has continued to be the material of choice for most traditional plumbing contractors to this day.

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Although galvanized pipe is very durable, it eventually begins to rust, and ultimately leak. The other downfall to galvanized pipe is the eventual build-up of sediment or corrosion inside the pipe. This results in a “hardening of the arteries” affect, eventually adversely affecting water flow and water pressure. For this reason replacement of galvanized piping with copper usually results in an increase in pressure.

Rusty and leaking galvanized pipe

Partially plugged old galvanized pipe

Copper pipe with soldered fittings does not rust or deteriorate in the same manner as galvanized pipe. Also, it is not prone to restricted flow from eventual build-up in the pipe. These qualities have made copper supply piping desirable for generations.

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Plastic supply piping has become popular greatly because the cost of copper pipe has increased. The most common type of plastic pipe in earlier years was CPVC (chlorinated poly vinyl chloride). The joints of this piping are glued together. It provides for a less costly alternative to copper, but it is less durable or reliable.

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The most modern type of “plastic” pipe is PEX (cross-linked polyethelyne). This is the color coded blue and red pipe that has prompted many of your inquiries as of late. The early returns on this type of piping have been very positive. Plumbing contractors in general have praised the cost benefits, ease of use and dependability of this pipe.

PEX supply piping with clamped fittings

PEX piping connected to copper

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PEX piping can be used in two ways.  Sections of the pipe can be joined or connected in a similar design to that of galvanized or copper pipes with elbows, “T”s, etc. The joints are rigidly clamped together (galvanized pipes have threaded fittings while copper pipes have soldered fittings).

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PEX piping can also be used in a “manifold” design. The manifold is located in the basement, near the main water service. This manifold feeds individual hot and cold pipes that seperately run from the manifold to each fixture in the house. This type of system greatly minimizes the number of joints or connections in the plumbing system. There is a single pipe feeding each fixture directly from the manifold to the individual fixture. Since plumbing problems often times occur at the joints or connections, a manifold system can theoretically reduce the number of problems that might be experienced as time passes. Also, the joints of PEX piping restrict flow and reduce the pressure. Manifold systems result in more uniform pressures to the various plumbing fixtures in the house. Although manifold systems are not the norm, we have inspected a number of modern homes with this type of system.

WASTE PIPES

Similar to supply piping, waste piping has also evolved over the years. Steel or cast pipes were used for decades in the early to mid-1900s. Much like its supply counterpart this type of piping was durable and reliable, but was also prone to eventual rusting and leaking. These pipes can become restricted or plugged.


Rusty galvanized wastepipe

Inside of old galvanized drain

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Cast iron waste piping was primarily used on the larger piping (3” and greater) and is less prone to corrosion, as compared to galvanized piping.  This waste piping is still used commercially; especially underground.

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Copper waste pipe was used in the late 1950s to the early 1960s.  This piping is very dependable, but it is cost prohibitive and somewhat labor-intensive when soldering large joints.

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In the early 1970s “plastic” or PVC drain pipe became the norm for residential use.  This remains the case to this day.  PVC drains are durable, reliable and do not tend to be prone to unusual restrictions or blockages.  Most PVC drain piping is glued at its fittings.  These connections are very dependable and are not prone to leakage.  Threaded couplers are also used on plastic or PVC drain pipes for traps and drain connections.  As a result, traps and drain extensions are very easy to clean and replace on an as needed basis.

PVC Drain connected to older cast drain cleanout at floor level

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We hope that you find this information to be beneficial, and that it helps answer some of the questions that you may have on this topic.  As is always the case, please do not hesitate to contact our office if we can be of any assistance.

Tankless Water Heaters & the State of the Real Estate Market on PSR (4/14/12)

Wednesday, April 11th, 2012

Tune in to PropertySourceRadio this Saturday morning from 9-10am as we have a full show.

Brett and Joe from Electri-Mech talk about Geothermal energy and Tankless Water Heaters. Have Elctri-mech install a tankless water heater and never worry about that piece of equipment for the rest of your life! You can contact them through their website.

Garry Britton, Nothnagle’s Brighton Office Manager, jumps on the hot seat and gives the State of the Real Estate Market. According to Britton, “The market is hot right now. If you are thinking of buying, be prepared to move fast as homes in certain price ranges are being sold in the first day with multiple offers!”

Carlos Rodriguez closes the show with a couple new scams to watch out for. “The school lunch” scam targets unsuspecting parents that there children’s lunch card needs additional funds.

Join Steve Hausmann, Alex Lillig and Jeff Haley (filling in for the vacationing Pat Coyne) this Saturday from 9-10am on Sportsradio 950 AM ESPN or stream the show from your computer or smartphone.

Tons of Knowledge on PSR this Saturday – 3/24/12

Friday, March 23rd, 2012

Join House and coyne this Saturday from 9-10am on Property Source Radio as they have a full show with 4 guests in the hot seat!

Marc Wasserman of Rochester Window Cleaning, a veteran of the show, demonstrates their new gutter glove protection system – Now available here in Rochester! “By far, the best product on the market for keeping your gutters clean all year long!” Visit GutterGlove.com to see more. Mention Property Source Radio and receive 10% off! Call 235-1200 for more information.

As you can see from the photo of the product, a MAC truck can’t get through this thing – No more cleaning your gutters! Attaches under your shingle and flashing. As Rain water comes down from the roof it filters through the mesh and into the gutter. Leaves and debris from trees sit on top and blow off the mesh!

Click image to see a closer look!

Flower City Glass shows us the new products they have for shower glass doors. To see the different brands and styles, visit flowercityglass.com. For a consultation, call them at (585) 546-8646 or visit their showroom @ 188 Mt. Hope Avenue, Rochester, NY 14620.

And this is the last weekend for City Living Sundays where we highlight the westside of Rochester, NY. If you are considering a move, the City of Rochester has a ton of housing opportunities at amazing prices. Ted Wood talks about City Living Sundays. Stop by the City Living Sundays meeting location at Theodore Roosevelt School #43, 1305 Lyell Avenue, Map available here. To see open houses for the event, log on to WNYopenhouse.com

Property Source Radio is every Saturday morning from 9-10am on Sportsradio 950AM ESPN. Listen on the radio or stream the show on your computer and smart phone

The Differences Between Engineering Inspections And Code Compliance Inspections

Wednesday, March 14th, 2012

By Douglas Burgasser

We have had numerous instances where clients and/or realtors have asked us whether a house that we are inspecting conforms with codes.  Home buyers sometimes confuse our inspections with code compliance inspections.

Pre-purchase engineering inspections of houses or buildings are not code compliance inspections. Such an inspection is considered to be well beyond the scope of a building inspection as defined by the professional standards that govern home inspections. By law, the local building department inspector (Code Enforcement Officer) has almost the final say in interpreting and applying codes.  Although we can sometimes comment on the applicable codes, the final determination must be the local CEO.

More importantly, it is critical to understand that existing homes will rarely conform to modern building codes and standards. This is because building codes are revised on a regular basis. As a result, today’s code would be different than the code that was in place when an existing home was constructed. The code at the time that the work (construction, repair, or improvement) was performed is the code that applies. There is also no requirement that existing homes conform to today’s codes and standards. Certainly, any renovation or repair work that is performed on an existing home must be performed in a manner that conforms to today’s standards.  We offer the three examples below:

Modern electrical codes dictate that electrical outlets in “potentially wet locations” be protected by ground fault interrupter protection. These locations would include some kitchen outlets, bath outlets, exterior outlets, pool equipment, etc. However, if a house was built in the 1950s it may not have ground fault protection for a bathroom outlet. There is no requirement that ground fault protection be installed. If this same bathroom were to be renovated the electrician who is performing the work would be obligated to install ground fault protection at the time of renovation. Today’s codes apply to the new work that is currently being performed.

Another example would be entry doors that separate a house from an attached garage. Modern codes for new work dictate that the door leading from the house to the garage must be a fire-rated door (usually metal) with a metal jamb. Also, a self-closing hinge is required for the door. This would prevent the door from being left open. The purpose of this code is to help prevent a fire from easily spreading from the garage to the interior of the house. If an existing house built in the 1940s has an attached garage, and the door leading to the garage is not a fire-rated door the homeowner is not be required to replace the door.  However, if they chose to replace the door, their obligation would be to utilize a door that conforms to current codes.

A third example would be that of automatic garage door openers. For a number of years new automatic garage door openers have been required to have redundant safety reverse features. This means that the door will reverse if it meets an obstruction or hits an object during the downward motion. Also, new openers must have an electronic eye safety reverse. This makes the door reverse if the electric eye (or safety beam) is crossed when the door is in the downward motion. Of course, there are many old openers still in use that would not conform to these standards. There is not a requirement that these openers be replaced.  The requirement would apply to openers that are currently manufactured and installed.

Homeowners should also understand that overzealous contractors will tend to overstate the necessity for proposed repairs or modifications based on code requirements. Once again, homeowners should understand that in many cases work does not need to be performed strictly because an existing component does not conform to modern codes. However, it is also important to understand that codes have mostly been established in the interest of safety. As a result, homeowners should consider modifications as an improvement and for the benefit of increased safety in their home and to the occupants.

On a related topic we have also seen an increased concern for finished basement space. Fire and safety codes that have been in place for decades dictate that basement space cannot be considered living space without a second means of egress. Since the mid 1980’s, finished rooms in a basement are only permitted if there are two exit points. The stairs leading into the basement would be one exit point. The second egress is usually an appropriately sized window or a door. There are also definite requirements that dictate whether a window would be an acceptable means of emergency egress. The window must be a certain minimum size (width, depth and square footage of opening), and the bottom of the window cannot be more than 44 inches from the basement floor.

A basement level bedroom must be equipped with its own means of egress. In other words, if a house has a finished basement that includes two bedrooms there must be an egress window or door from each of the bedrooms.

We hope that this brief explanation provides some clarity to the questions surrounding code issues and finished basement spaces.  Please do not hesitate to contact our office or any of our engineers if you have any questions in this regard.

Back Up Sump Pumps

Wednesday, March 14th, 2012

By Thomas Wurzer, P.E.

Backup Sump Pumps
Many areas of the country have basements with sump pumps. Most basements that are not built near a deeply buried storm sewer will have a sump pump. With the somewhat porous masonry block basements that are commonplace in our region, along with the floating slab floor drainage systems, a reliable means of pumping water out of the sump is important to protect the basement and all of the items and equipment contained therein.
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A basement beginning to flood
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Every few years, our region will be the unlucky recipient of an ice storm. When this occurs, the power can be interrupted to thousands of homes throughout the area. These interruptions can last anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks. Couple this with other “normal” interruptions of electrical power and there is a significant potential for your primary electric sump pump to be out of commission.
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There are several means of providing a backup sump pump, or at least a backup means of pumping water out of the basement in the event of a power failure. Battery backup pumps, water-powered pumps, portable emergency generator connections and whole-house gas fired generators are all potential solutions. These methods provide varying degrees of reliability, endurance, and additional benefits.
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Battery Backup Pumps.
Perhaps the most economical method of providing a backup sump pump is a battery backup sump pump. There are many of these available and they vary in size and capacity. Costs vary, but are typically in the range of $200 to $400 for the pump and accessories, plus $75 to $300 for the battery. If installing this on your own, the cost would be $300 to $700. If hiring a handyman or plumber, you might spend $600 to $1,000.
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Basically, these backup pumps consist of a second, individual pump that sits in the sump alongside of the primary electric pump. The float or actuator for the pump will typically be set several inches above the main pump. That way, if the water level rises above the level that the main pump can typically maintain, the backup pump will automatically turn on.
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Sump with a battery backup pump installed
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Usually a buzzer or alarm will sound to let occupants know that the battery backup pump is in use, and that the main pump could need servicing. In the event of a power failure, servicing the main pump would be of little value, other than running an extension cord form the main pump to a portable generator.
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Once the battery backup pump is operating, there is a limited run-time for the pump. Typically, this varies from between 6 to 12 hours of run-time. During an extended power failure, this may not provide enough time to fully protect the basement, but it does provide a time “cushion” during which a generator or alternative pumping means could be set up. It also is adequate for power failures lasting for only a few hours.
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Water-Powered Pumps
A step above the battery-powered pump is the water-powered backup sump pump. These are popular due to their relatively low first cost, along with the fact that they will run indefinitely, as long as there is a pressurized source of municipal water to the house. Obviously, this is not a good solution for homes with a water well.
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Although there are different models, the most widely used water-powered pumps only cost $120 to $300. However, there is some water piping necessary, in addition to drain piping.  Further, the local water authority requires a type of backflow preventer on the water supply piping to the pump. This may actually cost as much as the pump. Together, the cost could range from $250 to $450 self-installed or $450 to $700 installed by a contractor.
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Samples of water-powered sump pumps
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There is no alarm to let occupants know that the water powered pump has activated, pump these are typically loud enough for you to hear them engage and disengage. These pumps should be checked periodically for any leaks in the piping and valves and a type of flow alarm on the piping is a good accessory to consider to let you or your security provider know when the pump is in use (or if the water line for the pump broke and is flowing).
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Of course, water-powered pumps will run as long as the water pressure from the municipal service is adequate (usually 30 psi is required). These pumps also use a lot of water that you will be billed for when the pump is needed.
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Portable Emergency Generators
If the power to the house is interrupted, the best solution is to have a backup source of power. One method is to use portable gasoline powered generators. There are many, many models of generators available with a huge variation in price based on brand, capacity, features, and more. Prices for the generator can range from $100 to $5,000.
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There are small generators that can simply be operated outdoors near the basement with an extension cord running to the sump pump. However, for greater reliability, and to power other appliances such as the furnace and the refrigerator, a larger portable generator and a manual transfer switch are a better choice. This allows safe connection and operation of the outdoor generator and eliminates the risk of back-feeding the utility company service. The transfer switch has fuse or circuit breaker protection for the specific circuits as well. Transfer switches can cost from $250 to $400, plus installation by a qualified electrician.
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Typical portable emergency generator
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Manual transfer switch
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There are high water level alarms available for sumps that are battery powered or connected to the security system of the home.  These are helpful to alert you when the pump fails and when you need to get the generator connected and working.  As long as you can keep the generator running and working, you can run the sump pump.  In homes where constant pump operation is a possibility, having a second primary pump available in the event of a pump failure is a good idea as well.
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Whole House Generators
The Taj Mahal of backup pumping provisions is the whole house generator. Permanently installed natural gas powered generators provide the most reliable backup sump pump option. Along with an automatic transfer switch, a whole house generator can automatically supply power to most, if not all, of the house, including the sump pump. High quality comes at a high cost, and the installation of a whole house generator can run from $4,000 to $15,000.
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Typical whole house generator and automatic transfer switch
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As with any mechanical equipment, generators require maintenance. The whole house generator will typically run once per week for several minutes to “exercise” the unit and help charge the internal electric start battery. Similar to a car, there are air filters, oil filters, oil changes, etc. If you are not familiar with changing the oil in your car, you will want to consider a service contract to maintain the generator to make sure it is always ready for operation.
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Whether or not a backup means of pumping water out of the basement is needed depends on many factors. Some basements have gravity drains and do not require pumps.  Some sump pumps never run because the sump never accumulates water. But for basements with pump that run frequently during the spring and after rain storms, a backup means of pumping is good insurance. We hope that the information above clearly points out some of the options and costs for backup sump pumping. As always, we welcome any questions and comments that you may have regarding this topic or other relating to building inspection.
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Warren Engineering

When To Pay The Contractor and How Much?

Wednesday, March 14th, 2012

You’re planning a home improvement and hopefully got three estimates from contractors that you checked out with the Better Contractors Bureau.  You have decided on one as your contractor and call him to let him know he has the job and set a date for him to come over to sign the contract and discuss the specifications, approximate start and completion dates and most important to him the payment schedule.

You check the contract over to make sure it contains the contractor’s company name, address (not P.O. Box number), phone number, correct price, specifications, and the payment schedule. You find that he’s asking for a large down payment and three progress draw payments that are tied to various phases of the project’s progression phases.

This is where you have the upper hand and hold all the so-called cards! (money) Never give a large down payment! It’s suggested that you give a good faith deposit of no more than $500. Where specialty items have to be ordered such as custom cabinetry, custom windows or doors or any other items that will only be able to be installed in your home he will usually ask for more but it’s advisable to tell the contractor when he produces proof of the actual placed order you will then give him a draw for the item.

The regular payment schedule in the area is usually a small good faith down payment and then three progress draws. Always make sure the payment coincides with the work that’s done. For example in the case of an addition if the contract states one third when the mason starts the foundation don’t pay it until you see the materials are on the site and the mason is actually working. The same for a framing draw or other similar work done.

Any remodeling contractor worth his salt should have enough credit to buy materials and pay subcontractors to get the work started. However some suppliers want payment up front on specialty items and won’t except credit so in this case the contractor is within his right to ask for payment before ordering.

Most jobs will entail changes so be sure that you get the specifications and cost in writing and signed by both parties! Again don’t pay for a change upfront and only when the change is started. No matter what the draw schedule is that you agree on always protect yourself and keep a large enough balance to insure that the job is to your satisfaction.

A walk through final inspection should be mandatory and usually produces a punch list. If the job is completed and the punch list only has a few minor items on it such as some missing caulking or a molding that needs replacing and the balance is large then you should work out a payment for the balance holding enough to insure the contractor returns to finish the punch list items. Do not add to the punch list after the initial one so be sure you have listed all your concerns.

When the job is finished hopefully it was an enjoyable experience and you can recommend the contractor to friends and relatives. Good Luck with your project.

Homes with jaw-dropping backyards

Saturday, March 10th, 2012

As Alex reported 3/10/2012 on Property Source Radio.
By Marcelle Sussman Fischler, Forbes.com  – February 28, 2012
published on Yahoo Real Estate
News Sponsored by WNYopenhouse.com
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Once upon a time, a backyard with a giant swimming pool and fancy patio furniture were more than enough to while away a steamy afternoon in first-class comfort. Not anymore. These days the backyards of the rich and famous serve as personal oasis with outdoor kitchens, water parks, sculpture gardens, putting greens and even ice rinks.

“What’s outside the house is as important as what’s inside the house,” says Gary DePersia, an associate broker with the Corcoran Group and real estate liaison to business moguls and Hollywood celebrities. Among DePersia’s ritziest listings is Sandcastle, the $43.5 million home of Joe Farrell, owner of a Hamptons building company. His 12-acre spread is outfitted with an outdoor kitchen and covered lounge areas plus a fire pit, 60-foot swimming pool with underwater stereo, spa, sunken tennis court with viewing pergola and a recreation pavilion. Then there’s the guest house, pool house and to score a home run—a manicured baseball field for weekly softball games.

In Pictures: Homes with jaw-dropping backyards

In Pictures: Homes with jaw-dropping backyards

To some, a dream backyard has a sandy beach, sweeping mountain vistas, or a rooftop garden with jaw-dropping city skylines. In Napa Valley, vineyards do the trick. The standout 57-acre grounds at Villa Mille Rose are a spectacular garden showcase with 500 rose bushes, nearly 40 acres of grape-growing vines, an organic fruit orchard and two acres of 100-year-old olive trees. Wisteria-covered pergola, majestic cypresses and 360-degree mountain views add extra flourish to the grand landscape.

“You feel like you are stepping back into Florence,” says Ginger Martin, the Sotheby’s agent representing the stylish $37.8 million Tuscan-style property. No surprise considering the estate is owned by entrepreneur and philanthropist Maria Manetti Farrow, known for bringing Gucci franchises from Italy to the United States.

“Backyards are personal spaces,” requiring both “flair and functionality,” says Stephen Eich, landscape architect with Edmund Hollander Landscape Architect Designs.

A Frank Lloyd Wright-style abode that recently sold for $4.6 million in North Scottsdale, Arizona, is certainly utilitarian—if you’re a kid. The desert crash pad’s backyard sports a 300-foot zip line and a chugging train custom built to resemble the Santa Fe railway. Guests can also swing Tarzan-style into the five-star resort-style infinity edge pool, complete with waterfalls, grotto, slide and a spa for 10, according to Patrick Kirby, senior marketing consultant at Grand Estates Auction Company. And for the adults? The Sonoran Desert sunset and its accompanying mountain view backdrop should more than hit the spot.

Here are five inspired backyards:

Sonoran Desert Home
Location:
Scottsdale, Arizona

Among the backyard’s diversions is a mock Santa Fe railway train.
Photo: Grand Estates Auction Company

The Sonoran desert and its accompanying mountain views are merely the backdrop for entertaining at a Frank Lloyd Wright-style home on more than 16 walled acres in North Scottsdale, Arizona. The backyard perks include a 300-foot zip line and a chugging train custom built to resemble the Santa Fe railway for kids. Guests can also swing Tarzan-style from a rope tied to a tree into the million-dollar resort-style infinity pool, with waterfalls, grotto, slide and a spa for 10. Patrick Kirby, a senior marketing consultant at Grand Estates Auction Company, recently sold the home at auction for $4.6 million.

Tiger Woods’ Home
Location:
Jupiter Island, Florida

Tiger Woods can sharpen his golf game from the comforts of home.
Photo: Jeff Lichtenstein Realty

Golf phenom Tiger Woods owns a swanky piece of real estate on Jupiter Island, Florida. The property stretches from the Intracoastal Waterway to the Atlantic Ocean, but don’t expect the top golfer to hang out on the beach. Woods is more likely to be practicing his two-iron stinger on his personal four-green golf course. Woods’ backyard also sports a putting green, 100-foot lap pool, a 60-foot diving pool, a spa and a tennis/basketball sports court.

Tudor Home
Location:
Westbury, New York

A bridge spans a pond on the Tudor home’s nine-hole golf course.
Photo: Hollander Designs

Hollander Designs recently used a classic and elegant approach in designing the 115 acres surrounding a new 22,000-square-foot brick Tudor in Old Westbury, New York. With smaller “outdoor rooms,” some covered under Tudor or round arches, the home features gardens closer to the castle. A bridge spans a pond on the backyard’s nine-hole golf course and “tens of thousands” of trees, shrubs and flowers flesh out the backyard expanse.

Villa Mille Rose
Location:
Sonoma, California
Price: $37.75 million

The Napa Valley home includes 37 acres of grape-growing vines.
Photo: Sotheby’s International Realty

To some, a dream backyard has a sandy beach, sweeping mountain vistas, or a rooftop garden with jaw-dropping city views. In Napa Valley, vineyards do the trick. The standout 57-acre grounds at Villa Mille Rose are a spectacular garden showcase with 500 rose bushes, 37 acres of grape-growing vines, an organic fruit orchard and two acres of 100-year-old olive trees. Add to that wisteria-covered pergola, majestic cypresses and 360-degree mountain views. “You feel like you are stepping back into Florence,” said Ginger Martin, the Sotheby’s agent representing the stylish $37.8 million Tuscan-style property. It is owned by entrepreneur and philanthropist Maria Manetti Farrow, known for bringing Gucci franchises from Italy to the United States.

Normandy-Style Home
Location:
Sands Point, New York

The Sands Point home’s backyard is full of eclectic touches.
Photo: The Laurel Group

A sense of whimsy fills the eclectic backyard at this Normandy-style estate in Sands Point, New York, which ranges — in distinct pockets –from bits of Italy to the jungle and a beach garden. The owner, an avid gardener, added a magical touch to the outside decor with stone archways, whimsical iron gates and cherubs. In one nook, sea shells are embedded into the stucco walls around the infinity edge pool, overlooking the Long Island Sound. Closer to the mansion, an English knot garden showcases boxwoods growing out of giant cast-bronze fish. A stone path leads to an Alpine garden featuring a gazebo with a curlicue wrought-iron dome. Hummingbirds are drawn to the bird sanctuary’s trellis with trumpet vines and multiple birdbaths.

Click here to see more photos of homes with jaw-dropping backyards

Study: Home Owners Spend More on Housing Costs

Saturday, March 3rd, 2012

As Alex reported 3/3/2012 on Property Source Radio.
Realtor.org  – Daily Real Estate News | Tues, Feb 28, 2012
News Sponsored by WNYopenhouse.com
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Nearly one in four working families spend more than half their income on housing costs, which includes utility costs, according to a new study by the Center for Housing Policy.

The organization found that about 23.6 percent of working households devoted more than half of their income to housing costs in 2010, which was an increase of 1.8 percentage points compared to 2008 data. Researchers define “working households” as those that earn less than 120 percent of a region’s median income.

Housing experts generally advise home owners to not devote any more than 30 percent of their pretax income toward housing costs.

“The data show that home owners have been hit hard by the housing crisis in more ways than just lost equity,” Jeffrey Lubell, executive director at the Center for Housing Policy, said in a statement. “Many working home owners have been laid off or had their hours cut.”

The states with the highest number of households spending more than half their incomes on housing were:

  • California: 34 percent
  • Florida: 33 percent
  • New Jersey: 32 percent
  • Hawaii: 30 percent
  • Nevada: 29 percent

Source: “1 in 4 Spend More Than Half of Income on Housing, Study Says,” AOL Real Estate (Feb. 27, 2012)

Pace & Nothnagle on PSR – 3/3/12

Friday, March 2nd, 2012

Join House and Coyne this Saturday as they welcome Steve Abramson from Pace Windows and Doors and Frank Barker from Nothnagle Realtors.

Stve Abramson talks about Home Energy and Home Performance with their new building they re-built from the studs in Greece (Directly in front of Kodak Park). For more information on Pace and all the services they have to offer, please visit their website.

Frank Barker of Nothnagle talks about Investment properties and some unique ways of financing to get started! For more information please visit his website.

Property Source Radio is every Saturday morning from 9-10am on Sportsradio 950AM ESPN. You can listen on the radio or stream the show from our website.

HOW TO HIRE A HOME IMPROVEMENT CONTRACTOR

Saturday, February 25th, 2012

Carlos in Your Corner, 2/11/2012 on Property Source Radio.
by Carlos Rodriguez, Former NYS Assistant Attorney General
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WHAT YOU NEED TO DO/KNOW BEFORE YOU DECIDE TO HIRE A CONTRACTOR?

►RESEARCH & MAKE A DETAILED LIST OF ALL WORK THAT YOU WOULD LIKE DONE BY CONTRACTOR.

►OBTAIN AT LEAST THREE WRITTEN ESTIMATES FROM RELIABLE CONTRACTORS./ CHECK REFERENCES PROVIDED BY CONTRACTOR.

►OBTAIN PROOF OF CONTRACTOR’S BANK ESCROW ACCOUNT & INSURANCE COVERAGE FROM CONTRACTOR.[ WORKER’S COMP./LIABILITY ETC.]

►INVESTIGATE  WHAT BUILDING PERMITS/OTHER APPROVALS ARE REQUIRED BEFORE WORK BEGINS.

►GET  EVERYTHING  IN WRITING.-CONTRACTORS MUST PROVIDE CONSUMERS WITH A WRITTEN CONTRACT WITH REQUIRED DISCLOSURES IF CONTRACT IS OVER $500. The contract must be signed by the contractor and consumer.

►NEVER PAY FULL AMOUNT UP FRONT-KNOW WHERE YOUR PAYMENTS ARE GOING-DON’T MAKE FINAL PAYMENT UNTIL WORK IS COMPLETED AND YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH THE WORK PERFORMED.

►MAKE SURE THAT THE PROMISES MADE BY THE CONTRACTOR ARE STATED AND EXPLAINED IN THE WRITTEN CONTRACT.

►MAKE SURE THAT THE CONTRACT CONTAINS A STATEMENT OF THE ANTICIPATED START DATE AND COMPLETION DATE OF THE ENTIRE PROJECT.

►BE CAREFUL OF MODIFICATION OF WORK/ COSTS AFTER THE ORIGINAL CONTARACT IS SIGNED. Contractor should provide a complete estimate of the work required/ costs  in order to complete the work at the time the original contract is signed.

Remember that hiring a good contractor involves doing your homework first. Never agree to terms in a contract which are ambiguous or excessive.